Most homeowners don’t give their water heater much thought until it stops working. If yours is nearing its 15 year mark or you’re not getting enough hot water, it may be time to replace it.
If you have trouble with yours, first check the power supply by flipping the circuit breaker off and then back on again. Also, consider draining the tank and replacing the anode rod if it is caked with rust. Contact Water Heater Replacement Denver for professional help.
Depending on the size of your water heater, there could be one or two elements within it. The element is a metal coil inside the tank that provides the heat for your hot water. It looks like a rectangle or cylinder with wires on either side. The first step in replacing an element is turning off the electricity to it (a circuit breaker). Next, drain the tank if necessary. This is done by connecting a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank and opening a hot water faucet somewhere in the house to help it drain faster.
After draining, locate the panels secured with screws that are on the sides of the water heater and remove them to expose the heating elements. Wear rubber gloves to protect your hands. Inside the panel, find the heating element and locate its circuit wires. Loosen the screw holding each of the wires, and disconnect them from the heating element. Now, use a non-contact voltage detector to test whether there is still power to the heating element or thermostat. Hold the detector near each of the two terminal screws on the front of the element, and if it shows no indication of electricity flowing through it, you’re ready to replace the heating element.
Now, install the new heating element. First, make sure it is the right voltage and wattage for your specific water heater. Then, remove the gasket that seals it to the tank and clean the area where it fits on the element. Coat the area where the gasket fits on the new element with pipe-joint compound. Then, screw the new heating element into place (clockwise). Be careful not to overtighten it as this can cause leaks.
Thermostat
Your thermostat controls your home’s temperature, and a malfunctioning one can make your house less than comfortable. You can upgrade your thermostat yourself, and it’s an easy job that doesn’t require any special electrical skills. It’s also a relatively inexpensive project.
You can buy a new thermostat for under $50, which means you’ll save money by not paying the utility company to heat and cool your home when the current thermostat isn’t working. If you’re looking to upgrade, be sure to choose a model that will offer the features you want.
A standard non-programmable mechanical thermostat uses coiled bi-metallic strips to measure air temperature and switch the heating system on or off to keep your home at an even temperature. These types of thermostats tend to be a little less accurate than modern digital models.
If your thermostat is displaying a reading that doesn’t match the temperature you set, start by reviewing the circuit breakers. A tripped breaker could have cut off power to the thermostat, making it unable to change the settings you’ve set.
Once the power is restored, remove the existing faceplate and unscrew the thermostat from the gang box. Remove the old wires from their terminals and use a pencil to mark the opening for each screw on the back of the thermostat baseplate so you can easily reattach them on the replacement.
If the wires you’ve exposed are corroded, use a pair of wire strippers to remove their insulation and clean the contacts on the thermostat’s base. Once the connections are clean, use wire connectors to connect the wires to their corresponding terminals on the new thermostat. Refer to your photos or notes if necessary, and make sure the wires are attached exactly as they were on the previous thermostat.
Anode Rod
Anode rods are a vital part of traditional water heaters, and they work to attract sediment that would otherwise corrode the inside of your tank. Unfortunately, they eventually deteriorate and need to be replaced. Thankfully, replacing an anode rod is easy and inexpensive. It is recommended to check your anode rod regularly and replace it every two years, or sooner if you notice it is severely deteriorating.
To replace your anode rod, you will need to turn off the power and water supply to the heater. You will also want to drain the water from the tank using a hose or bucket. Once the water has been drained, it is important to refill the tank before turning on the power and water again.
Once the power and gas are off, remove the cover of the water heater and find the access point for the anode rod. This is typically located on top of the water heater under a plastic cap or cover. Using a socket wrench and breaker bar, loosen the hex head bolt and remove the anode rod. It is recommended to have a helper to hold the tank in place to prevent it from moving around during this step, as it could damage the internal pipe connections.
Upon installing the new anode rod, wrap the threads with Teflon tape to ensure there is a watertight seal. Insert the rod and tighten it a few turns by hand before using the breaker bar to tighten it more. You should also be aware of what type of anode rod you’re purchasing, as magnesium rods can sometimes react with certain bacteria in the water and create a sulfur or rotten egg smell. Aluminum or zinc anode rods are a better option, as they don’t produce this reaction.
Dip Tube
The dip tube allows water to enter your tank from the top and prevents the water heater from being fired up with no water present. This is important because the tank could explode if it starts up with little or no water in it! The dip tube is also helpful because it keeps the tank topped off with water, providing you with a constant supply of hot water.
Over time, your dip tube can develop problems that reduce its lifespan. One common problem is corrosion. This occurs because minerals from hard water build up on the inside of the dip tube, reducing its lifespan. You can combat this by regularly testing your water temperature and pressure with a thermometer or water pressure gauge, and by monitoring your home’s water quality to keep an eye on its mineral content.
Another common issue is a broken dip tube, which can cause sediment to dislodge and fall into your water heater’s tank. This can then break off into your faucets, causing clogs. You can avoid this by regularly checking for broken dip tubes, and by replacing them when needed.
To replace a dip tube, first shut off the power or gas to your water heater (if necessary). Then drain your water heater by attaching a garden hose to the drain valve port on the bottom of the tank and running it to a drain. You can also open up a few hot water faucets to help relieve pressure in the tank and allow it to drain faster. Once the tank is drained, disconnect the cold water supply line to the tank by using a pipe wrench to loosen the inlet pipe nipple and carefully remove the old dip tube.
Pressure Valve
The pressure relief valve (PRV) is a precision piece of equipment that senses downstream water pressure and reacts to maintain a pre-set level. This valve, which is located at the bottom of your water heater, consists of a spring and a diaphragm or piston that acts as a balancing mechanism. As the downstream pressure rises, it compresses the spring and reduces flow. As the pressure drops, the spring expands, and the diaphragm or piston opens to increase flow.
Water flowing at rates higher than necessary to meet fixture and appliance demands can cause damage, noise and reduced life expectancy of home piping and appliances. Maintaining a set water pressure in your house, approximately 50 pounds per square inch (psi) can alleviate these problems.
A direct-acting relief valve consists of a poppet or ball, exposed to system pressure on one side and opposed by a compression spring of preset force on the other. The force of the spring and downstream pressure causes the valve to block all flow until the upstream pressure exceeds the valve setting, then the adjustable spring allows the valve to open. A reservoir port on the spring side returns leakage fluid back to tank.
To replace your PRV, turn off the water supply valve at the main shutoff valve, then drain any remaining water in the pipe leading down from the relief valve. Connect a garden hose to the drainage valve and lead it outside or into a bucket. Unscrew the elbow connecting to the pipe that leads down from the PRV using a wrench. Remove the old valve, and, if it has a discharge pipe attached, unscrew it, too, using a wrench. Before installing the new PRV, wrap the threads with Teflon tape and screw it in place.
